The San Blas archipelago is one of Panama's most interesting attractions, both for its natural beauty and unique indigenous culture. It is the territory of Panama's Kuna Indians, who call it the Kuna Yala, or 'Land of the Kuna'. Composed of more than 350 islands and islets just a stone's throw from the mainland, this Caribbean archipelago is a favorite among tourists and boating enthusiasts for its white-sand shores and clear waters, and its fascinating indigenous culture.

Because the Kuna Yala is a semi-autonomous state, all tourism within the San Blas archipelago is operated by the Kuna. Visitors can spend a few nights in one of the many eco-lodges that dot islands, relax on gorgeous, deserted beaches, and learn about the Kuna culture and traditions. The atmosphere is invariably peaceful and relaxed, and for those who want a true respite from the hubbub of daily life, there is no gentler way to while away the days than swinging in a hammock in the shade of palm fronds, gazing out into crystal blue waters.

History of the Kuna

The story of the Kuna Indians in the Americas spans thousands of years, much of it preserved in the tales of their rich oral history. They came to the San Blas archipelago from the thick Darien jungle, which straddles the Panama/Colombia border, nearly five hundred years ago, around the time of the arrival of the Spanish to Central America. As the Spanish increasingly took control of the region, the Kuna retreated from the threat of subjugation to the nearby San Blas islands in the 1800s.

Panama separated from Colombia in 1903, but refused to recognize the Kuna's autonomy as granted by Colombia. In the following decades, the Kuna were subjected to a vicious cultural suppression and assimilation program, forbidden to speak their native tongue and dress in traditional garb. The tension mounted until 1925, when the Kuna attacked two police stations, marking the start of a successful revolt. In the subsequent peace treaty, the Kuna were once again granted autonomous status. In 1938, the Comarca San Blas was officially recognized as an autonomous Kuna territory, and in 1945, the Kuna Congress, which forms the basis for today's Kuna government, was formed.

The Kuna today

Today, there are three Kuna territories, the largest of which is the Kuna Yala, or Comarca San Blas (the other two are the Kuna de Madugundi and Kuna de Wargandi). There are an estimated 50,000 Kuna living in 49 communities across the San Blas archipelago. Kuna communities tend to be densely packed, in sharp contrast to the archipelago's many untouched islands. Each community has its own leader, both political and spiritual, who learns and transmits the songs of his people's oral history.

The Kuna continue the traditional life of agriculture and fishing, and coconuts, once the currency of the islands, still play a pivotal role in food and trade. Homes are typically bamboo thatch huts, and families tend to live with several generations under one roof. The Kuna travel between the islands in traditional canoes made of hollowed-out logs, some of which can span more than a meter across.

The Kuna are a small-built people, with strong features and usually pleasant expressions. The Kuna women are extremely distinctive, wearing brightly-colored, exquisitely stitched 'molas' (tapestries) in their dress panels, and wrapping beads around their arms and ankles to protect them from evil spirits. Often they will sport a gold nose ring and a single black line drawn alongside the nose. They also tie bright scarves around their hair, which is worn short once a Kuna woman reaches maturity. The molas or tapestries are very popular among tourists; the Kuna women use a reverse-appliqué painstainkingly stitched on both sides to create vivid and elaborate designs. These can be purchased for $10 to $50, on average, and even on the mainland, one can see Kuna women in full garb selling their molas to passersby. Sadly the designs, once strong in spiritual and historical imagery for the Kuna, now tend to reflect tourist expectations.

There is a strong prevalence of albinism among the Kuna, characterized by fair hair and skin, and reddish eyes. The albinos hold a sacred place in Kuna culture, and are believed to have descended from the moon.

Tourism in Kuna Yala (San Blas)

Tourism is an important part of the modern Kuna economy. Because of their semi-autonomous status, the Kuna retain full rights over ownership of the islands, and control all tourism in their territory. As a result, their economic independence makes them a model for indigenous people around the world.

This also ensure the Kuna are able to protect their culture and natural resources, by limiting the kind of tourism that can take place in San Blas. Many of the accommodations are in the form of eco-lodges, with an emphasis on simplicity rather than luxury, and activities tend to be low-key. Snorkeling is a favorite pastime, with plenty of colourful marine life to observe and even some sunken ships. There is however no scuba-diving, since Kuna law forbids any activity in the water that can't be done with a lungful of air.

Because so many of the islands are deserted, tourists can pay to be taken to their very own, private playground for the day, to enjoy the incredible serenity of an untouched, white-sand beach looking out onto the turquoise Caribbean waters, or take kayak tours of a few of the nearby islands.

For those who want to learn more about the Kuna themselves, a visit to a local village can usually be arranged at the lodge. The simplicity of the Kuna lifestyle can be very charming, and the glimpse into their traditions is a rare insight into one of region's few indigenous tribes to survive largely intact. There are, of course, modern intrusions; some areas have pollution problems, and t-shirts and running shoes are slowly replacing traditional garb. But the Kuna language still lives strongly, and the Kuna themselves are working toward ensuring they can preserve their culture and way of life, as well as their local environment.

As a rule, flying is the only way to get to the San Blas islands, but many cruise boats dock in the San Blas waters, and there are some sailing tours that are permitted.

Useful links:

Frommers Complete Guide to the Comarca Kuna Yala: a thorough breakdown of activities and accommodations available throughout the Kuna territory.
Congreso General Kuna: the Kuna Yala government website
The Comarca Kuna Yala: a successful example of autonomy for indigenous people: an article by the European Academy Bozen/Bolzado

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